refactor: fix typos

doc/buildguide_v1.md

@@ -47,7 +47,7 @@ In my experience it is easiest to solder the lowest components first, and the hi
 
 ### Step 1: Diodes
 
-You need to be careful to solder the diodes the correct way. The line on the diode should always be closest to the square pad of the footprint, NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and throug hole diodes, but since K16 is missing smd pads, I recommend using through hole(if you only have smd, you need to hack K16, not very hard, use a small piece of wire).
+You need to be careful to solder the diodes the correct way. The line on the diode should always be closest to the square pad of the footprint, NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and through hole diodes, but since K16 is missing smd pads, I recommend using through hole(if you only have smd, you need to hack K16, not very hard, use a small piece of wire).
 
 If you use through hole diodes and have sockets for the MCU, keep the legs you cut off and use them for socketing the MCU.
 

doc/buildguide_v2.md

@@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ the big switch hole is unobstructed.
 
 You need to be careful to solder the diodes the correct way. 
 The line on the diode should always be closest to the square pad of the footprint, 
-NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and throug hole diodes, 
+NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and through hole diodes, 
 and you can choose which side you want to mount them. 
 I suggest mounting them on the top side, to keep height of board as low as possible.
 

doc/case_buildguide.md

@@ -81,11 +81,11 @@ Place the PCB inside the case
 
 Flip it upside down   
 **Note:** i didn't use the case bottom, but if you did, set it in place at this point.
-insert the screws through the case bottom if youre using it, if not, just screw them in through the screw holes in the PCB.
+insert the screws through the case bottom if you're using it, if not, just screw them in through the screw holes in the PCB.
 ![image](gallery/case-build/10.png)
 ![image](gallery/case-build/11.png)
 
-Once this is done, flip back over and refit the switches and keycaps. As i mentioned, my printer isn't callibrated very well, so pushing the switches in took a LOT of force, but they did go in, and as a bonus, this means my switches have zero wobble.
+Once this is done, flip back over and refit the switches and keycaps. As i mentioned, my printer isn't calibrated very well, so pushing the switches in took a LOT of force, but they did go in, and as a bonus, this means my switches have zero wobble.
 It looked like this once i got all the switches and keycaps installed.
 ![image](gallery/case-build/12.png) 
 

doc/firmware.md

@@ -78,7 +78,7 @@ To help learn your keymap, @omark96 made this tool that works on windows: https:
 ## Encoder customization
 
 Tweaking the encoder actions is supported in vial, but needs to be done in the keyboards/cheapino/encoder.c file for local qmk build, they are not part of the keymap.
-(you dont HAVE to be a progammer to change it, but you may call yourself a novice programmer once you do...)
+(you dont HAVE to be a programmer to change it, but you may call yourself a novice programmer once you do...)
 In the method called "turned", there are actions defined for multiple layers, this one is tweaked for my personal layer...
 The "else" section at line 26, will send page down for clockwise encoder turns, and page down for counter clockwise.
 The first if, line 20, sends volume up/down if you are on layer 6. 

doc/orderingguide.md

@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ You need to buy from at least 2 parties, the PCB needs
 to be custom made, the other parts can be ordered from any electronics supplier.
 
 I have a small amount of v2 PCBs, and components, so feel free to drop me
-a mail and ask for a qoute, I might be able to send you a kit pretty cheap.
+a mail and ask for a quote, I might be able to send you a kit pretty cheap.
 Its difficult to beat the chinese though, especially with shipping from Norway ;)
 
 
@@ -45,7 +45,7 @@ much, I know other people do, and it doesnt cost much extra).
 
 For a hotswap build(meaning you can replace switches without soldering),
 you need to order hotswap sockets, and you should probably use a plate, or a case,
-to keep swtiches from falling out accidentally. The old v1 plate will do, but 
+to keep switches from falling out accidentally. The old v1 plate will do, but 
 several people(including myself) are working on plates and cases. Stay tuned.
 
 Buying from AliExpress is a bit of an art in itself. You need to do your

doc/tips.md

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-Miscellanous tips and tricks
+Miscellaneous tips and tricks
 ============================
 
 

doc/troubleshooting.md

@@ -54,7 +54,7 @@ If in doubt, just download from the release section and flash again.
 
 ## The keyboard/mcu is heating up really fast
 
-This can happen if there is a short between gnd and vcc. Check continuity and find the short, and fix it with som solder wick or a pump.
+This can happen if there is a short between gnd and vcc. Check continuity and find the short, and fix it with some solder wick or a pump.
 
 ## None of the above helped!
 

doc/v1.md

@@ -47,7 +47,7 @@ Probably the cheapest tenting solution: https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboar
 
 Drawbacks:
 
-* V1 only: Without a plate, its pretty difficult to solder swithes straight. I made a small helper "fork" to hold each column in place when soldering. Check the build guide for a link to a really good 3D printed fork.
+* V1 only: Without a plate, its pretty difficult to solder switches straight. I made a small helper "fork" to hold each column in place when soldering. Check the build guide for a link to a really good 3D printed fork.
 * RJ45 cables are a bit rigid, so they do not lay down on the table nicely like audio cables.
 * There is no official qmk support, you need to compile from my branch manually... Keymap can be edited in qmk configurator though.