Merge branch 'master' into feature/case

doc/buildguide_v2.md

@@ -16,17 +16,36 @@ V2 build by soul_wish: https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/1c5nj
 
 In my experience it is easiest to solder the lowest components first, and the highest last, since you need to turn the PCB around with the components on the other side when soldering(and then you want the loose ones to rest directly at the desk). Thats why I suggest starting with the diodes, then the MCU, the switches, the RJ45 socket and lastly the encoder.
 
-### Step 1: Diodes
+### Step 1: Hotswap sockets
 
-You need to be careful to solder the diodes the correct way. The line on the diode should always be closest to the square pad of the footprint, NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and throug hole diodes, and you can choose which side you want to mount them. I suggest mounting them on the top side, to keep height of board as low as possible. 
+This step is optional, and only if you are building for hotswap.
+The sockets go on the bottom sides of of the PCB,
+Make sure you follow the PCB outline for the sockets(white lines),
+its very easy to solder them in the wrong direction(at least that
+is what I managed to do with more than half of them first time...)
+
+Just make sure to place them on the white outline, AND that 
+the big switch hole is unobstructed.
+
+![Hotswap](images/buildguidev2/hotswap.png)
+
+### Step 2: Diodes
+
+You need to be careful to solder the diodes the correct way. 
+The line on the diode should always be closest to the square pad of the footprint, 
+NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and throug hole diodes, 
+and you can choose which side you want to mount them. 
+I suggest mounting them on the top side, to keep height of board as low as possible. 
 
 ![Diodes](images/buildguidev2/diodes.png)
 
-If you use through hole diodes and have sockets for the MCU, keep the legs you cut off and use them for socketing the MCU.
+If you use through hole diodes and have sockets for the MCU, 
+keep the legs you cut off and use them for socketing the MCU.
 
 ![Diode legs](images/buildguidev2/diodes_legs.png)
 
-### Step 2: Bridge solder pads on right side
+
+### Step 3: Bridge solder pads on right side
 
 This step is only for the right side of the keyboard.
 You need to bridge the 7 solder pads. If you forget this, the right side will not register keypresses.
@@ -43,7 +62,7 @@ In the picture I bridged 4 of the 7:
 
 ![Bridging pads](images/buildguidev2/bridge.png)
 
-### Step 3: MCU
+### Step 4: MCU
 
 Only the pins on the 2 long sides are actually used, but if you have the RP2040-Zero with pre-soldered pin headers, there is room for that also. Choose one of the following steps:
 
@@ -61,8 +80,7 @@ Stick the clipped diode feet through the MCU, and down into the socket. Use a to
 
 Solder all the feet in place, and remove all 3 parts from the breadboard, and put them into the PCB, use some tape to hold it in place when you turn it around and solder it.
 
-![Socketing 3](images/socket3.jpeg)
-The image is of the v1 PCB, but MCU install is exactly the same for both versions...
+![Socketing 3](images/buildguidev2/socket3.jpeg)
 
 #### Use pinheader to mount MCU
 
@@ -70,9 +88,10 @@ Use the two longest yellow pin headers that come with the MCU: solder them to th
 
 ![MCU pin header](images/mcu_pinheader.jpeg)
 
-### Step 4: Install the Switches
+### Step 5: Install the Switches
 
 Next, it's time to install the switches. 
+Note: if you installed hotswap sockets you do NOT need to solder switches...
 If you only have 3 pin switches, refer to hints in the v1 build guide on how to align them.
 
 Pop them all in, turn the PCB around and solder them.
@@ -84,17 +103,17 @@ minimize risk of overheating switch and melting the plastic.
 ![Switches back](images/buildguidev2/switches2.png)
 
 
-### Step 5: Install the RJ45 sockets
+### Step 6: Install the RJ45 sockets
 
 Just align them to the white outline. They should stay in place by themselves when you flip the PCB to solder them.
 
-### Step 6: Install the encoder
+### Step 7: Install the encoder
 
 Put the encoder in the footprint on the right side, make sure its flush to the PCB when you solder it.
 
 ![Finished](images/buildguidev2/finished.png)
 
-### Step 7: Trim below and install bumpers
+### Step 8: Trim below and install bumpers
 
 Use the cutters to trim any extruding wires on the underside of the PCBs. 
 I havent done this with anything else than the encoder pins which I found to
@@ -106,7 +125,7 @@ Install rubber bumpers to protect your desk and keep the keyboard from moving.
 The v2 outline is a bit smaller than the v1, so be generous with the bumpers,
 sprinkle them all around, or typing will be wobbly.
 
-### Step 8: Test that everything works.
+### Step 9: Test that everything works.
 
 There is a good chance you forgot to solder a diode or a switch leg...
 

doc/firmware.md

@@ -1,7 +1,10 @@
 Firmware guide
 ==============
 
-There are 2 main routes, either flash the vial firmware and use the vial web or desktop ui
+The release section contains pre-built firmware for Vial, a minimal qwerty build
+and miryoku with either qwerty or colemak.
+
+There are 2 main routes to tweak your own keymap, either flash the vial firmware and use the vial web or desktop ui
 to configure the keyboard, or setup qmk for compiling locally.
 
 In either case, there are A LOT of options to tweak...
@@ -74,7 +77,7 @@ To help learn your keymap, @omark96 made this tool that works on windows: https:
 
 ## Encoder customization
 
-Tweaking the encoder actions needs to be done in the keyboards/cheapino/encoder.c file, they are not part of the keymap.
+Tweaking the encoder actions is supported in vial, but needs to be done in the keyboards/cheapino/encoder.c file for local qmk build, they are not part of the keymap.
 (you dont HAVE to be a progammer to change it, but you may call yourself a novice programmer once you do...)
 In the method called "turned", there are actions defined for multiple layers, this one is tweaked for my personal layer...
 The "else" section at line 26, will send page down for clockwise encoder turns, and page down for counter clockwise.
@@ -86,7 +89,10 @@ TBH, I dont really use the encoder much, so I didnt spend much time tweaking thi
 
 Once you change the encoder file, run the command from step 6 and 7 to deploy changes to your keyboard.
 
-Good luck!
+# Build your own Miryoku
+
+There is a branch of miryoku you can use for local builds here:
+https://github.com/tompi/qmk_firmware/tree/cheapinov2-miryoku
 
 # References for keymaps and qmk tweaking
 
@@ -96,3 +102,5 @@ Good luck!
 * Check out colemak-dh if you are curious about other layouts than qwerty: https://colemakmods.github.io/mod-dh/
 * For practicing, https://www.keybr.com/ and https://monkeytype.com/ are nice
 * If you are on reddit, you should join https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/
+
+Good luck!

doc/orderingguide.md

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
 
 ## Introduction
 
-The parts list(BOM) is the same for both v1 and v2.
+The parts list(BOM) is the same for both v1 and v2, except for optional hotswap sockets for v2.
 You need to buy from at least 2 parties, the PCB needs
 to be custom made, the other parts can be ordered from any electronics supplier.
 
@@ -33,6 +33,8 @@ Take care when it comes to shipping, there is a lot of options, and price
 and time varies a lot(they always get there in the end though, so I tend
 to choose the cheapest option...).
 
+Please note that the PCB is reversible so you'll only get 5 of the same PCB in the package.
+
 ### The components
 
 ![Components](images/orderingguide/components.png)
@@ -41,6 +43,11 @@ You need switches, keycaps, rj45 sockets, diodes and an rp2040-zero mcu.
 The encoder and mcu sockets are optional(to be honest, I dont use the encoder
 much, I know other people do, and it doesnt cost much extra).
 
+For a hotswap build(meaning you can replace switches without soldering),
+you need to order hotswap sockets, and you should probably use a plate, or a case,
+to keep swtiches from falling out accidentally. The old v1 plate will do, but 
+several people(including myself) are working on plates and cases. Stay tuned.
+
 Buying from AliExpress is a bit of an art in itself. You need to do your
 due diligence and check reviews and ratings of the store. If an item is priced
 significantly lower than other places, without many sales or reviews, you
@@ -68,8 +75,9 @@ These are the items I really recommend in addition:
 
 | Part                | Quantity for 1 keyboard | Quantity in sold package | Notes |Price (USD)  | Url |
 | --------------------|------------------------:|-------------------------:|------|-------:|-----|
-| Sockets for MCU |                        1|                         5|   Choose the single row silver plated(cheapest...). These are lower profile, and easier to solder straight, but more expensive: https://www.    aliexpress.com/item/1005006248653180.html (9P PH3.5 Female Header). Socketing is a long term choice: you can reuse mcu for another build, or more   importantly replace it easily if it breaks.   |   2.01 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001122376295.html |
-| Silicone bumpers|                      ~20|                       100| 5 mm wide and 2 mm high is fine. If you know you will only use the keyboard on a mat or with a case, you might not need this, otherwise you   want them.     |   1.55 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002619943801.html |
+| Sockets for MCU |                        1|                         5|   Choose the single row silver plated(cheapest...). These are lower profile, and easier to solder straight, but more expensive: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006248653180.html (9P PH3.5 Female Header). Socketing is a long term choice: you can reuse mcu for another build, or more   importantly replace it easily if it breaks.   |   2.01 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001122376295.html |
+| Silicone bumpers|                      ~20|                        50| 5 mm wide and 2 mm high is fine. If you know you will only use the keyboard on a mat or with a case, you might not need this, otherwise you   want them.     |   1.55 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003044229837.html |
+| Hotswap sockets |                       36|                        40| You want the mx one, NOT the low profile | 3.04 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006610157756.html |
 
 These are some nifty items I really like, but not necessary:
 

doc/plates_and_cases.md

@@ -0,0 +1,28 @@
+Plates and cases
+================
+
+[This simple plate](../plates/plate.stl) works for both v1 and v2.
+It has no support or screw inserts, so not ideal for hotswap
+builds, but does the job.
+
+## V2
+
+This is the basically the same plate with a few supports
+placed where the mounting holes are. I have not tested to
+actually screw this on, Im just using it without screws:
+[left plate with supports](../plates/cheapino-plate-left.stl)
+[right plate with supports](../plates/cheapino-plate-right.stl)
+
+TheMadClover made 2 really nice looking case options, one tented,
+and one flat, check them out here:
+https://www.printables.com/model/879047-two-case-designs-for-cheapinov2-split-ergo-keyboar
+![Case](images/cheapino_case.webp)
+
+## V1
+
+This is a VERY nice case with built-in support for tenting
+and a travel solution:
+https://www.printables.com/model/835134-cheapino-split-keyboard-case
+
+This is a case for v1 with a simple tenting solution:
+https://www.printables.com/model/541536-cheapino-case-with-basic-tenting

readme.md

@@ -25,6 +25,8 @@ See the [build guide v2](doc/buildguide_v2.md) for more details and pictures of
 
 Checkout the [troubleshooting guide](doc/troubleshooting.md) if your Cheapino does not work.
 
+Some info on the [plate/case solutions](doc/plates_and_cases.md) I know about.
+
 See the [firmware guide](doc/firmware.md) for how to build and customize keyboard firmware.
 News: both v1 and v2 supports vial, checkout the cheapino_vial.uf2 in the releases.