Added info about hotswap sockets

This commit is contained in:
Thomas Haukland
2024-05-10 17:28:35 +02:00
parent 2f37a46c18
commit 9260408de5
2 changed files with 30 additions and 10 deletions
+23 -9
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@@ -18,15 +18,28 @@ In my experience it is easiest to solder the lowest components first, and the hi
### Step 1: Diodes
You need to be careful to solder the diodes the correct way. The line on the diode should always be closest to the square pad of the footprint, NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and throug hole diodes, and you can choose which side you want to mount them. I suggest mounting them on the top side, to keep height of board as low as possible.
You need to be careful to solder the diodes the correct way.
The line on the diode should always be closest to the square pad of the footprint,
NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and throug hole diodes,
and you can choose which side you want to mount them.
I suggest mounting them on the top side, to keep height of board as low as possible.
![Diodes](images/buildguidev2/diodes.png)
If you use through hole diodes and have sockets for the MCU, keep the legs you cut off and use them for socketing the MCU.
If you use through hole diodes and have sockets for the MCU,
keep the legs you cut off and use them for socketing the MCU.
![Diode legs](images/buildguidev2/diodes_legs.png)
### Step 2: Bridge solder pads on right side
### Step 2: Hotswap sockets
This step is optional, and only if you are building for hotswap.
The sockets go on the bottom sides of of the PCB,
Make sure you follow the PCB outline for the sockets(white lines),
its very easy to solder them in the wrong direction(at least that
is what I managed to do with more than half of them first time...)
### Step 3: Bridge solder pads on right side
This step is only for the right side of the keyboard.
You need to bridge the 7 solder pads. If you forget this, the right side will not register keypresses.
@@ -43,7 +56,7 @@ In the picture I bridged 4 of the 7:
![Bridging pads](images/buildguidev2/bridge.png)
### Step 3: MCU
### Step 4: MCU
Only the pins on the 2 long sides are actually used, but if you have the RP2040-Zero with pre-soldered pin headers, there is room for that also. Choose one of the following steps:
@@ -70,9 +83,10 @@ Use the two longest yellow pin headers that come with the MCU: solder them to th
![MCU pin header](images/mcu_pinheader.jpeg)
### Step 4: Install the Switches
### Step 5: Install the Switches
Next, it's time to install the switches.
Note: if you installed hotswap sockets you do NOT need to solder switches...
If you only have 3 pin switches, refer to hints in the v1 build guide on how to align them.
Pop them all in, turn the PCB around and solder them.
@@ -84,17 +98,17 @@ minimize risk of overheating switch and melting the plastic.
![Switches back](images/buildguidev2/switches2.png)
### Step 5: Install the RJ45 sockets
### Step 6: Install the RJ45 sockets
Just align them to the white outline. They should stay in place by themselves when you flip the PCB to solder them.
### Step 6: Install the encoder
### Step 7: Install the encoder
Put the encoder in the footprint on the right side, make sure its flush to the PCB when you solder it.
![Finished](images/buildguidev2/finished.png)
### Step 7: Trim below and install bumpers
### Step 8: Trim below and install bumpers
Use the cutters to trim any extruding wires on the underside of the PCBs.
I havent done this with anything else than the encoder pins which I found to
@@ -106,7 +120,7 @@ Install rubber bumpers to protect your desk and keep the keyboard from moving.
The v2 outline is a bit smaller than the v1, so be generous with the bumpers,
sprinkle them all around, or typing will be wobbly.
### Step 8: Test that everything works.
### Step 9: Test that everything works.
There is a good chance you forgot to solder a diode or a switch leg...
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@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
## Introduction
The parts list(BOM) is the same for both v1 and v2.
The parts list(BOM) is the same for both v1 and v2, except for optional hotswap sockets for v2.
You need to buy from at least 2 parties, the PCB needs
to be custom made, the other parts can be ordered from any electronics supplier.
@@ -43,6 +43,11 @@ You need switches, keycaps, rj45 sockets, diodes and an rp2040-zero mcu.
The encoder and mcu sockets are optional(to be honest, I dont use the encoder
much, I know other people do, and it doesnt cost much extra).
For a hotswap build(meaning you can replace switches without soldering),
you need to order hotswap sockets, and you should probably use a plate, or a case,
to keep swtiches from falling out accidentally. The old v1 plate will do, but
several people(including myself) are working on plates and cases. Stay tuned.
Buying from AliExpress is a bit of an art in itself. You need to do your
due diligence and check reviews and ratings of the store. If an item is priced
significantly lower than other places, without many sales or reviews, you
@@ -72,6 +77,7 @@ These are the items I really recommend in addition:
| --------------------|------------------------:|-------------------------:|------|-------:|-----|
| Sockets for MCU | 1| 5| Choose the single row silver plated(cheapest...). These are lower profile, and easier to solder straight, but more expensive: https://www. aliexpress.com/item/1005006248653180.html (9P PH3.5 Female Header). Socketing is a long term choice: you can reuse mcu for another build, or more importantly replace it easily if it breaks. | 2.01 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001122376295.html |
| Silicone bumpers| ~20| 100| 5 mm wide and 2 mm high is fine. If you know you will only use the keyboard on a mat or with a case, you might not need this, otherwise you want them. | 1.55 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002619943801.html |
| Hotswap sockets | 36| 40| You want the mx one, NOT the low profile | 3.04 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006610157756.html |
These are some nifty items I really like, but not necessary: