v2 building and ordering guide
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doc/buildguide_v2.md
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# Cheapino v2 build guide
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## Introduction
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Welcome to the Cheapino Keyboard v2 Build Guide!
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In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to build your own custom keyboard using the Cheapino v2 kit.
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The Cheapino is a budget-friendly DIY split mechanical keyboard that is perfect for beginners who are looking
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to try their hand at building their own keyboard.
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I assume you read the [ordering guide](orderingguide.md) and have all the mandatory parts and tools.
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## Steps
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In my experience it is easiest to solder the lowest components first, and the highest last, since you need to turn the PCB around with the components on the other side when soldering(and then you want the loose ones to rest directly at the desk). Thats why I suggest starting with the diodes, then the MCU, the switches, the RJ45 socket and lastly the encoder.
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### Step 1: Diodes
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You need to be careful to solder the diodes the correct way. The line on the diode should always be closest to the square pad of the footprint, NOT the round one. The PCB supports SMD and throug hole diodes, and you can choose which side you want to mount them. I suggest mounting them on the top side, to keep height of board as low as possible.
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[Diodes](images/buildguidev2/diodes.png)
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If you use through hole diodes and have sockets for the MCU, keep the legs you cut off and use them for socketing the MCU.
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[Diode legs](images/buildguidev2/diodes_legs.png)
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### Step 2: MCU
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Only the pins on the 2 long sides are actually used, but if you have the RP2040-Zero with pre-soldered pin headers, there is room for that also. Choose one of the following steps:
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#### Socket the MCU
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Socketing makes it easier to reuse the MCU(the RP2040-Zero) for another build later, or swap it if its broken or malfunctions.
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If you have sockets for the MCU, mount them on a breadboard, or stick them in some cardboard to get them straight when mounting.
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Stick the clipped diode feet through the MCU, and down into the socket. Use a tool, or you will stick it into your fingers(been there, done that...).
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Solder all the feet in place, and remove all 3 parts from the breadboard, and put them into the PCB, use some tape to hold it in place when you turn it around and solder it.
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(I know I know, the image is of the v1 PCB, but MCU install is exactly the same...)
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#### Use pinheader to mount MCU
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Use the two longest yellow pin headers that come with the MCU: solder them to the board first, and then solder the MCU to them.
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### Step 3: Install the Switches
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Next, it's time to install the switches.
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If you only have 3 pin switches, refer to hints in the v1 build guide on how to align them.
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Pop them all in, turn the PCB around and solder them.
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I solder 1 pin from each switch on a row, and then do the other pin for the entire row, to
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minimize risk of overheating switch and melting the plastic.
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### Step 4: Install the RJ45 sockets
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Just align them to the white outline. They should stay in place by themselves when you flip the PCB to solder them.
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### Step 5: Install the encoder
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Put the encoder in the footprint on the right side, make sure its flush to the PCB when you solder it.
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### Step 6: Trim below and install bumpers
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Use the cutters to trim any extruding wires on the underside of the PCBs.
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I havent done this with anything else than the encoder pins which I found to
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stick out a little extra.
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Maybe clip them inside a plastic bag to prevent the metal from flying around.
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Install rubber bumpers to protect your desk and keep the keyboard from moving.
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The v2 outline is a bit smaller than the v1, so be generous with the bumpers,
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sprinkle them all around, or typing will be wobbly.
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### Step 7: Test that everything works.
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There is a good chance you forgot to solder a diode or a switch leg...
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Flash the vial firmware in the release section.
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The encoder should send arrow up and down by default, and pressing
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the encoder should play/pause your currently playing media.
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Download vial to test all the keys(and use it to re-map if you want).
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## Firmware
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Congratulations, you have successfully built your own custom keyboard.
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See the [firmware guide](firmware.md) for how to build and customize keyboard firmware.
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Send me a mail or issue if something doesnt work as expected!
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BIN
doc/images/buildguidev2/diodes.png
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 720 KiB |
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doc/images/buildguidev2/diodes_legs.png
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 712 KiB |
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doc/images/buildguidev2/finished.png
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 548 KiB |
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doc/images/buildguidev2/switches1.png
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 968 KiB |
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doc/images/buildguidev2/switches2.png
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 959 KiB |
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doc/images/orderingguide/components.png
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 874 KiB |
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doc/images/orderingguide/jlcpcb.png
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 140 KiB |
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doc/images/orderingguide/keycaps.png
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After Width: | Height: | Size: 649 KiB |
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doc/orderingguide.md
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# Cheapino components buying guide
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## Introduction
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The parts list(BOM) is the same for both v1 and v2.
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You need to buy from at least 2 parties, the PCB needs
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to be custom made, the other parts can be ordered from any electronics supplier.
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I have a small amount of v2 PCBs, and components, so feel free to drop me
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a mail and ask for a qoute, I might be able to send you a kit pretty cheap.
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Its difficult to beat the chinese though, especially with shipping from Norway ;)
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### The PCB
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From my research, nothing beats jlcpcb.com on price(pcbway.com is close, but not quite there...).
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You will need to upload the "gerbers" on the frontpage of jlcpcb.
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* v1: https://github.com/tompi/cheapino/releases/download/v1.0/gerber.zip
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* v2: https://github.com/tompi/cheapino/releases/download/v2.0/cheapino_v2.zip
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You should see a thumbnail of it afterwards. Defaults are fine, but you might consider
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lead free HASL(ca 1usd more expensive).
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You probably want to consider a different color than the default green.
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This is completely up to you, there is no price difference, the only thing
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is that green is guaranteed to take only 24 hours to produce, while
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others might take up to 3-4 days(which is nothing compared to AliExpress shipping times...)
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Take care when it comes to shipping, there is a lot of options, and price
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and time varies a lot(they always get there in the end though, so I tend
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to choose the cheapest option...).
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### The components
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You need switches, keycaps, rj45 sockets, diodes and an rp2040-zero mcu.
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The encoder and mcu sockets are optional(to be honest, I dont use the encoder
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much, I know other people do, and it doesnt cost much extra).
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Buying from AliExpress is a bit of an art in itself. You need to do your
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due diligence and check reviews and ratings of the store. If an item is priced
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significantly lower than other places, without many sales or reviews, you
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should be suspicious. AliExpress is just the middleman, and there are lots
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of unserious actors.
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For my own part, I have good experience with the new "Choice" options,
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where you get free shipping on > 10usd orders. A few times I ordered
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none choice-options and had problems with VOEC clearance, so I had to pay
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extra taxes and a clearance fee, and it took way longer to ship.
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These are the items I usually order:
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| Part | Quantity for 1 keyboard | Quantity in sold package | Price (USD) | Url |
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| --------------------|-------------------------|--------------------------|--------------|-----|
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| RP2040-Zero[^1] | 1| 1| 1.78 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004281549886.html |
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| RJ45 Sockets (8P8C) | 2| 10| 2.37 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32902228456.html |
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| Diodes 1N4148[^2] | 42| 100| 1.02 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32660088529.html |
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| EC11 Encoder | 1| 5| 2.68 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004907970664.html |
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| Encoder knob[^3] | 1| 5| 1.35 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004907970664.html |
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|---------------------|-------------------------|--------------------------|--------------|-------------------------------------------------------|
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[^1]: Choose the version without header, and buy some sockets, its worth it!
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[^2]: You can also ordes smb if you want. Smaller but more difficult to solder: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000685043735.html
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[^3]: A much better looking(and more expensive) knob: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32749281108.html
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As you can see, it really makes sense to just order 2 mcu's at once, to be able to build 2 keyboards.
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These are the items I really recommend in addition:
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| Part | Quantity for 1 keyboard | Quantity in sold package | Price (USD) | Url |
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| --------------------|-------------------------|--------------------------|--------------|-----|
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| Sockets for MCU[^1] | 1| 5| 2.01 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001122376295.html |
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| Silicone bumpers[^2]| ~20| 100| 1.55 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002619943801.html |
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|---------------------|-------------------------|--------------------------|--------------|-------------------------------------------------------|
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[^1]: Choose the single row silver plated(cheapest...). These are lower profile, and easier to solder straight, but more expensive: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006248653180.html (9P PH3.5 Female Header). Socketing is a long term choice: you can reuse mcu for another build, or more importantly replace it easily if it breaks.
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[^2]: 5 mm wide and 2 mm high is fine. If you know you will only use the keyboard on a mat or with a case, you might not need this, otherwise you want them.
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These are some nifty items I really like, but not necessary:
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| Part | Quantity for 1 keyboard | Quantity in sold package | Price (USD) | Url |
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| ------------------------|-------------------------|--------------------------|--------------|-----|
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| Flexible cat6 cable[^1] | 1| 1| 0.84 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002518783703.html |
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| Magnetic USB cable[^2] | 1| 1| 2.22 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003776565766.html |
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| Carrying case[^3] | 1| 1| 2.12 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006381237074.html |
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|-------------------------|-------------------------|--------------------------|--------------|----|
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[^1]: 0.5m is perfect in my experience. Regular network cables are often very long and rigid.
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[^2]: You can buy any brand, but make sure its not charging only, check the picture for 4+ contact points. I use these for all my boards, the usb port of the mcu is the first thing that will wear out if you dont use this. Make sure you get both cable+plug, and chose the usb c type.
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[^3]: This case fits pretty snugly: 15x11x4,5cm. Nice to have if you are travelling!
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## Switches
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You will need switches, and people are writing insanely long texts about the topic, eg https://www.theremingoat.com/ .
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I often work in an open space with other people, so I like to not make too much noise and tend to choose linear or silent tactiles,
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as opposed to people who enjoy annoying others and choose clicky switches. (ok, im writing this text on my cheapino v1 with recycled
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blue clickys, and they ARE pleasant, but this is at home, and my wife is using sound insulating earbuds atm...)
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I have ordered these, and liked them: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006270820565.html
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(Just tried the peach and silent cream, but have an order for the lemon ones in as well...)
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If you want cheap,
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You will need 36 switches per keyboard.
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** NB: buy 5 pin switches!** One of the most important improvements of v2 of the Cheapino
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is support for 5 pin switches, which aligns switches easily even without a plate.
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## Keycaps
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Keycaps are also something you can spend huge amounts of time and money on.
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Want a keycap with your favorite Pokemon molded in, no problem, they are just 40usd per keycap: https://hirosarts.com/custom-pokemon-keycap/
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This guy got his keycaps after a small waiting period of 3+ years...: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1c6zewk/about_3_years_2_months_and_6_days_later/
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Im pretty happy with xda profiles from AliExpress. One set is usually enough for 2-3 Cheapinos...
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||||
Why not go all in an order a clear keyset, you will need to touch type anyway, so no need for
|
||||
labels. You will blow your colleagues minds with this set: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004761931363.html
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I got the transparent one, and there was enough keys for 3 complete keyboards.
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This is a v2 prototype with milky yellow switches that im testing wireless with.
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## Tools
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Here are the tools you will need:
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||||
- Soldering iron (I have a KSGER T12 one from AliExpress, paid ~25usd I think, super happy with it!)
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- Solder
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||||
- Diagonal cutters
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||||
Nice to have:
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||||
- Safety goggles(you dont want solder or cut off diode legs in your eyes)
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||||
- Flux
|
||||
- Solder wick(for when you applied too much solder: apply some flux to it first)
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||||
- Cleaning ball for solder iron(made from copper wire) and sponge: for tip maintenance
|
||||
- Helping hands: to hold the PCB up from the desk while soldering diodes
|
||||
|
||||
Send me any tips you have!
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||||
@@ -3,8 +3,7 @@ Cheapino
|
||||
|
||||
Probably one of the cheapest split keyboards you can build.
|
||||
|
||||
N.B.: Version 2 is out(check releases), but have not updated photos
|
||||
or build guides. I recommend you build v2 instead of v1.
|
||||
N.B.: Version 2 is out(check releases). I recommend you build v2 instead of v1.
|
||||
|
||||

|
||||
|
||||
@@ -15,7 +14,10 @@ and utilizes a japanese duplex matrix, so only one
|
||||
mcu is needed(in fact it only uses 7 of the rj45 wires to
|
||||
support 18 switches and an encoder on the right side).
|
||||
|
||||
Checkout the [build guide](doc/buildguide_v1.md) for more details and pictures.
|
||||
See the [ordering guide](doc/orderingguide.md) for what you need and how to order.
|
||||
|
||||
See the [build guide v2](doc/buildguide_v2.md) for more details and pictures of how to actually build it.
|
||||
(Obsolete: [build guide v1](doc/buildguide_v1.md))
|
||||
|
||||
Checkout the [troubleshooting guide](doc/troubleshooting.md) if your Cheapino does not work.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||